“Grrrakka kkakkakkakkakkakkakk akkakkakk kkakka akk”
You may have noticed this sound over the past 2 months while climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress. Do you wonder what it is? It’s the sound of a Hilti TE-6A cordless rotary hammer drill working hard to drill holes that will hold the bolts that protect all of us while we enjoy climbing at Crazy Horse Buttress.
At the end of 2017 we set a goal to finish developing Crazy Horse Buttress in 2018. By our estimates, 100-150 new routes can still go up on untouched rock at Crazy Horse. So we set out to make that goal a reality. Funded by CMRCA, Francis Haden and the rest of the bolting team at CMRCA are working hard to bolt as many lines as Crazy Horse will take. We started in December and as of now, more than 45 new lines have been bolted.
One of our core values is Practice Sustainability. To us, this means operating a sustainable business, building sustainable partnerships, and bringing a sustainability focus to the environment. What sometimes gets missed but is also hugely important us, is how we approach the development of Crazy Horse as a sustainable climbing resource.
Our Bolting Standard
When we began bolting at Crazy Horse Buttress years ago, there were already many lessons learned from the developers in the south of Thailand. We already knew that expansion bolts were not a long term solution and Hilti RE-500 glue was already showing it was the strongest and longest lasting resin solution. Though we installed some expansion bolts during our first development phase in 2001, we have since shifted entirely to glue in bolts. Our goal has always been to use the best gear available with the focus of bolting a route so that it will last for as long as possible. With our current marine grade stainless steel and Hilti RE-500 glue standard we believe the resource will last for at least 50 years and are hoping for more.
You may have also noticed that we are changing top anchors out so there are two bolts each with long chains and rings. This is the news standard for top anchors at Crazy Horse Buttress and will be the standard for any routes developed by CMRCA. This helps with rope twisting and makes a nice equalized point to thread the rope for rappel or lowering. We really hope you like what you are seeing.
Crag development is a huge task. Developing a route is more than just the bolts and glue. It also requires ropes, drills, drill bits, loads of other equipment but most importantly it requires time and experienced labor. Just the bolts and glue for one route of 10 bolts costs about THB 5,000 baht. A 15 bolt route costs about THB 6,500.
To help with the cost of bolting, you can contribute directly to the effort by purchasing a Bolt Crazy Horse t shirt, Bolt Crazy Horse stickers, the printed guidebook, or the guidebook iPhone App. You can also make a direct contribution to the Bolting Fund. Just stop by the shop and say you want to contribute to the crag or you can use the PayPal donation link below and contribute online. Interested in a First Ascent? You can help pay for the cost of a route and we will save the first ascent for you and you’ll get your name in the guidebook.
In the meantime, get out and enjoy the new routes at Crazy Horse. Let us know what you think! Thank you for your continued support.
Learn About Bolting
Interested in learning more about bolts, the bolting process, how it all works? Join us for a weekend bolting seminar with the CMRCA team. On Friday night, 09 March attend a bolting presentation by Francis Haden at the CMRCA Bouldering wall. Then on Saturday, 10 March Francis Haden, Josh Morris and other bolting instructors will be on hand at Crazy Horse Buttress to demonstrate how to bolt and glue as well as pull testing bolts to see when and how the fail. Stay tuned for more information.
Climb safely and climb on