CMRCA Climbing Blog

 

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Bolting New Routes at Heart Wall

A major bolting push is well underway at Heart Wall, the newest area at Crazy Horse Buttress.

Over the past month, CMRCA staff and a few friends have bolted three new routes at Heart Wall, bringing the total number of routes in the new area up to 12. The new routes will be graded 5, 6, and 7 (the details have yet to be worked out), so there is a little bit for everybody!

Development at Heart Wall began three years ago, with most of the routes going up in the last eighteen months. Heart Wall is a real labor of love: it’s probably the most beautiful area at Crazy Horse, and it’s high on the mountain and north-facing, so it stays cool, but it’s a steep 1km walk through jungle from the parking area (which means 30 minutes if you’re wearing a bolting-sized pack), and there’s a lot of loose rock and vegetation, which makes bolting new lines a lot of hard work.

 

CMRCA Takes Asia Bouldering Cup Thailand By Storm!

Phairat Kaewkan (Muad) and Josh Morris recently returned from Krabi, Thailand and the Asia Bouldering Cup Thailand.  Muad competed for the Thai National Team finishing 9th in a competitive field that included climbers from Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Chinese Taipei, and Thailand.  Muad provided great leadership for the Thai team and we are really proud of his performance.

Kwang is a Dad!

We are happy to announce a new member of the CMRCA family!

Arkom Sriyaprom, known by most as Kwang, had a beautiful and healthy baby girl yesterday. He will be taking a couple of weeks off to help out around the house, and adjust to being a dad!

Kwang has been an instructor with CMRCA for over four years, and we all love him for his enthusiasm and his energy. We’re sure he’ll be a wonderful father.

CMRCA Staff Assists in Spine-stable Evac of Climber on Tonsai

Yesterday CMRCA staff member Ted Conbeer assisted in the rescue of an injured climber at Eagle Wall on Tonsai Beach in Krabi Province, Southern Thailand. Ted was on vacation in Tonsai when a travelling climber that he had met in Chiang Mai asked him for assistance – a climber had fallen onto his back from about five meters while clipping the second bolt.

Kat and Ted earn their Wilderness First Responder

For the last two weeks, Kat and I got to skip out on work in order to attend a special Wilderness First Responder (WFR) class being hosted by the International Sustainable Development Studies Institute. The course was taught by two instructors from the NOLS Wilderness Medical Institute, the premier organization for wilderness medical instruction.

Wilderness medicine is a special set of first aid and medical practices that are necessary when definitive care (a modern hospital or an ambulance with highly trained EMT’s) is more than two hours away. An 80-hour WFR course trains rescuers how to manage a patient and a scene if they are the first to arrive. The course teaches a well-rounded skillset, and is more about critical thinking, problem solving, and improvisation than about the memorization of lists or protocols. In the United States, WFR is the definitive wilderness medical certification.

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